Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
